Finally back: mulled wine season at Fischerhäusl!

Every year it strikes us just in time for the time change: the mulled wine craving. Because that's when the evenings suddenly turn dark and chilly - and we shiver and want to warm up somewhere! Luckily, a local insider tip saves us from the certain cold shock: the mulled wine stand at Fischerhäusl, cozy (and windproof!) hidden in a secluded side street of Innsbruck's old town. Why you should come here early, the ancient secret behind the delicious mulled wine and what sets Fischerhäusl apart from the surrounding „Glüh-Standln“ Christmas markets: A little pleasure guide to the start of the season.

“Da Glühwein lafft scho, magst glei oan?”benedikt jokes when I meet him one day before the big season opening at the Fischerhäusl in Herrengasse. (="The mulled wine is already ready, would you like one?") But of course I say yes, because the sun is glowing its last gold over the peaks of the Nordkette and it's quickly getting noticeably cooler. Red or white, he wants to know - the crucial question for all mulled wine vendors. I take the white one today and ask if he won't get tired of it after 30 years? Not at all, laughs Benedikt - in summer we are the Team Tomaselli and provide homemade ice cream at various locations (and two new vending machines). In winter, we simply turn things around and serve our hot mulled wine at Fischerhäusl - and to be honest, we look forward to it all year round.

Benedikt used to help out here as a young boy, but for the past four seasons he has been the boss himself. What has changed in over 30 years? "The Hot Aperol has now replaced the Orangenpusch, and the after-work beer (Zillertal Pils) remains surprisingly popular alongside the hot drinks," laughs Benedikt, "but our mulled wine secret is still the same." Incidentally, the basic rule is "Afterworkinstead of Aprés-Ski", which is why Fischerhäusl simply dispenses with high-proof spirits completely (the only exception: baked apple punch with Schuss). Instead, a DJ provides the atmosphere seven days a week - and even the playlist(available to stream here) has been toned down so that „Last Christmas“ is really only sung at the very end, promises Benedikt.

And otherwise: Mondays are always „Student Day“ and happy hour (otherwise 4-7pm) lasts all evening (until 10pm). For the small appetite, there are beer pretzels or meat and cheese sandwiches from the in-house Speckeria, for the big appetite the Restaurant Fischerhäusl right next door (in combination with the mulled wine stand, a really hot tip for Christmas parties!) And here's another tip: come early, take in the evening atmosphere and leave before the big rush. The exclusive after-work location at Herrengasse has long since found many friends in Innsbruck, and long queues form from 6 p.m. at the latest. If you're coming with friends, you should therefore make sure you book at Benedikt in good time „a Tischerl“ make a reservation at.

In the cozy light of the radiant heaters, "the white" tastes so delicious that I immediately have to try "the red" as well. Both at their best, not too sweet, fruity and spicy, a really fine recipe! I cautiously enquire about the details. But Benedikt just laughs and says: "Only Meraner (note: fine Innsbruck winery) knows the secret of our mulled wine. I couldn't tell you - and that's actually a good thing." I looked a bit offended, but understandable anyway. So here's my secret recipe - for your very own private Fischerhäusl-Feeling at home.

Even if all the Christmas markets open their (mulled wine) gates this weekend: On the last Saturday before Christmas, Fischerhäusl closes its legendary doors again - with a brilliant closing party, of course. If you don't want to wait until next winter, you can extend the season a little longer with homemade mulled wine and the BestOfFischer playlist.

For about four cups of mulled wine:

• 0.75l good (!) white wine (e.g. Grüner Veltliner, Wachau, Lower Austria)
• 2-4 tbsp sugar
• 2-4 cloves
• 1-2 sticks of cinnamon (no powder!)
• 2-4 capsules of cardamom
• 1-2 pieces of star anise
• A small cup of water/black tea
• 1 orange
• 1 tiny pinch of salt
• a little honey

Crack open the cardamom pods and roast them with the remaining spices in a pan over a medium heat for a few minutes until everything smells wonderfully like Christmas. Then add the sugar (and salt) and caramelize with a splash of water. Deglaze with a little tea or water, turn the heat down to low, add 1-2 pieces of orange zest and a bottle of (good!) white wine. Heat carefully and leave to infuse for a good 20 minutes, mulled wine must never boil! Finally, season to taste with fresh orange juice and a little honey, serve with orange wedges and enjoy „Fischerhäusl-Style“! (Tip: If you leave the mug deposit (3 euros) at Fischerhäusl, you can even take the motif mug home with you)

Photos: All pictures in the article are from the author.