© Leon Barton
beating the heat
Let's face it, when you're stuck in the city, heatwaves are unbearable. Luckily, it's both fast and easy to get out of Innsbruck to experience some truly spectacular scenery, with ample opportunities for some refreshing plunges in cold water.
As my wife needed the car for work, I had a little think about cool hikes (as in literally 'cool') near Innsbruck that are accessible via public transport.
Having been to the Ehnbachklamm gorge before by car, I knew it was stunning, but something that would make it even more special would be a hike down through the gorge from one train station - Hochzirl - to another - Zirl - without having to backtrack, or walk uphill at all.
the train to hochzirl
With the temperature in the thirties already at 9am, I purchased my ticket at the Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof (main station). It's the train to Seefeld, check the ÖBB website for departure times and platform. It takes 22 minutes to Hochzirl and even in that short journey, there are some spectacular views as you leave the city and head up into the mountains.
into the woods
After a very enjoyable journey, staring out of the window, and, as I was going 'station to station', listening to David Bowie, I got off the train and headed into the woods. Turn right as you leave the train and join the forest trail.
At first, follow the signs to the Neue Magdeburger Hütte.
It felt mercifully cool to be under a canopy of conifers, and as I strolled the forest trails I knew straight away I'd made a wise decision in choosing this particular hike.
down to the gorge
Around 15 to 20 minutes in (providing you don't stop), you take a sharp right to Ehnbachklamm - Zirl, and walk down a steep(ish) path towards the gorge.
shade and cold water
Walking alongside the stream cooled the temperature even more and about 25 minutes in, I took the opportunity to take my shoes off and dip my feet into the water.
the stoney plateau
Roughly 35 to 40 minutes after leaving Hochzirl station, I reached the stoney plateau, where the gorge opens up ahead of the dam. It's quite a spot.
the dam
I then turned left to take the trail that leads round to the dam, which you then cross. This was one of my favourite sections of the hike, although if you're not great with heights it's a little uncomfortable.
Gorge-ous!
After the dam, there's a a series of steep steps. If you go with children, it's best to make sure you hold their hands as well as the wire rail. This is most definitely NOT a hike to be done in flip flops...
break time
After roughly an hour of walking, I decided it was time for a break. It's at about that point in the hike that a couple of nice picnic spots beside the stream appear. I enjoyed my crisps sandwiches, thanks very much ( yes, carbs on carbs... this is considered fine dining in Britain...) at a truly gorgeous location. I also took the opportunity to have a little paddle.
cooling off
After my early lunch, I took to the path again and as the sun rose higher, the heat increased. Between the walk down from the dam and reaching Zirl there are several small shallow pools where you can paddle or sit in the water, so that's just what I did.
towards Zirl
All the way down the gorge, there are breathtaking beauty spots. This article might feel a bit photo-heavy but these are just a fraction of the pictures I took!
a stroll through the town
After about one and a half hours of walking time since getting off the train at Hochzirl, I reached the town of Zirl at the bottom of the gorge. To walk to the train station go right after walking under the road and head onto 'Klammweg'.
It's about 30 minutes through the town to get to the train station, and it's exposed, so I was very grateful for my hat, and that I'd applied lots of factor 50 sunscreen.
At the bottom of Klammweg, turn right onto Meilstrasse. The Tyrolis Hotel will appear on your left. Look out for the - rather random - old school British telephone box on the opposite side of the road!
Sadly, I didn't have 10p on me so I couldn't make a call. Instead, I took some pictures of the wonderfully situated Calvary church.
the final stretch
Turn left onto Auergasse, then left again onto Bahnhofstrasse, which, helpfully, translates as 'station street'. Just follow the road down for about a kilometre, over the river, until you see the sign for the 'Bahnhof' at the roundabout.
Around three hours after alighting from Hochzirl station I reached Zirl train station. It was roughly two hours of walking time and an hour or so of resting/eating/cooling off in cold water.
Trains depart from Zirl to Innsbruck every half an hour so you never have to wait very long. It's only around fifteen minutes back to the Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof.
Tips? Sturdy shoes are a must and take lots and lots of water. It's a perfect summer hike if you go prepared.
Gorge away!
Show me the location on the map
Welsh-born father of two boys. Innsbruck resident since 2009.
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