The cathedral square – Innsbruck’s (almost) hidden gem

I really like Innsbruck's old town with its famous Golden Roof and richly decorated houses. Of course, I'm not alone in this - no wonder this part of the city is a real tourist magnet. What many people overlook: The beautiful cathedral square is just a few steps away from the Golden Roof. Follow Pfarrgasse for a few meters and you will find yourself in front of the impressive Cathedral of St. Jacob - and suddenly feel like you're in another world. Here it is quieter, more relaxed, almost decelerated. With its surrounding alleyways, the cathedral square feels like a small district in itself - with hip cafés, traditional craft businesses and cozy restaurants. A real Innsbruck Hidden Gem, a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.

An oasis of splendor, history and hospitality

Cathedral Square is a place where the old and the new blend wonderfully. On the one hand, there is the imposing Cathedral of St. Jacobwhich impresses with its baroque splendor even as you pass by. It looks back on a long history: the church was first mentioned here in 1180. After severe earthquake damage in the 16th and 17th centuries, the cathedral was rebuilt between 1717 and 1724 - and still rises majestically above the rooftops of Innsbruck today. Its unmistakable bells delight visitors and pilgrims from all over the world. But the cathedral is not only impressive from the outside - it is definitely worth taking a look inside. I have to confess: It's been a while since I've been inside the cathedral - so long that I could hardly remember. So it was all the nicer to enter it again and rediscover it in the course of the research for this article.

World-famous: the Cranach-Madonna

The 16th century Madonna of Mary Help of Christians by the painter Lucas Cranach the Elder is world-famous. The so-called "Cranach Madonna" can be admired in the right side altar of the cathedral. Did you know that it is so famous that it has been copied all over the world? By the way: If you fancy a little scavenger hunt, you should definitely keep your eyes peeled when walking through the city - there are beautiful, lovingly preserved images of the Madonna on many of Innsbruck's house walls. Small works of art in everyday life that you often only discover at second glance. And then there is this incredible story about the rescue of the Cranach Madonna at the end of the Second World War: it was actually smuggled out of the city in a rucksack to save it from destruction. My colleague Werner has written a fascinating article about it - be sure to read it!

Tacit knowledge, great stories: A visit to the city archives

Let's stick to stories - or rather: history. Hidden gems in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral square are also the city archives and the city museum. Unfortunately, I was unable to visit the latter as it is closed until May 14, 2025 due to renovation work. Instead, I spent all the more time - quite unexpectedly - in the city archives. I was very lucky to meet an extremely dedicated and helpful member of staff. Without the nice Mr. Herbst, I probably wouldn't have been able to find my way around - books, folders, notes everywhere ... to be honest, I was slightly overwhelmed.

History you can touch - and bring along!

But what exactly is the city archive? It documents the history of Innsbruck from its beginnings to the 21st century. Photos, postcards, oil paintings, flyers, documents and files are not only stored here, but also systematically recorded - so that they can be viewed quickly (also digitally). Whether by history professors or amateur historians. And there are quite a few of them. For example, Mr. Herbst told me about the Hutterites - an Anabaptist community that goes back to Jakob Hutter. Some of them traveled all the way from the USA to follow in the footsteps of their namesake. Hutter was executed at the stake in Innsbruck in the 16th century - a memorial plaque on the Golden Roof still reminds us of this today.

I also found it particularly exciting that the archive is not only used by researchers. Anyone who comes across old photos, books or other contemporary items while clearing out the attic and doesn't know where to put them: "You can bring them to us," says Mr. Herbst - and points to a box full of old slides on his desk, which someone has probably just handed in. He also shows me a firefighter's helmet from days long gone and a first aid book from the 1930s - fascinating finds with a history.

Gingerbread, soaps and candles - my favorite childhood memories

Now it's getting personal - or rather: nostalgic. Because I also have wonderful childhood memories of Domplatz. My godmother and her family live in Vienna, and when she visited us, it was a tradition to go to Innsbruck together (we lived a bit out of town). That was always a real event for us children. One of the highlights was a visit to the candle store Tiroler Wachszieher und Lebzelter. This was a real highlight for my siblings and me: we were allowed to choose a small soap animal and a gingerbread. A small thing - and yet I still think back to it fondly today. I now want to pass this tradition on to my own children. At least, when I was back in the "candle store" for this blog post, I brought them a gingerbread from there. Pure nostalgia - and the store is just as magical today as it was back then.

Time travel in Pfarrgasse

Pfarrgasse connects Innsbruck's old town with the cathedral square - a charming alleyway where you can discover many other restaurants and quaint stores in addition to the aforementioned candle store Tiroler Wachszieher und Lebzelter. These include the delightful children's clothing shop kinderreichthe lovingly curated gift shop Feinheitenthe cocktail bar C.U. or the cozy pub Hopfmann & Söhne. A real eye-catcher in Pfarrgasse is the listed Prechthaus - and right in the middle of it all: Uhren Schmollgruber. The family has been running a very special watch and jewelry store here since 1979. In the Gothic vaults, Georg and Philipp Schmollgruber present antique rarities, fine timepieces from brands such as Nomos Glashütte and Chronoswiss as well as their own line „Schmollgruber“. When you enter, you are not just entering a store, but a small museum of the art of watchmaking - a place where time suddenly becomes very tangible.

Culinary highlights around the cathedral square

After history, culture and shopping, there's no shortage of culinary delights - now it's time to get merry. If you fancy a creative drink, the Fuchs & Hase is the place to be. It's particularly cozy to sit outside at the Moustachethe hip meeting place with a relaxed flair. A real insider tip is the Fischerhäusl with its idyllic inner courtyard and delicious Tyrolean home cooking. And even though Easter is only just over, here's a little tip for the run-up to Christmas: Fischerhäusl is one of the city's most popular hotspots for mulled wine and punch (especially among students). For those who prefer something more exotic, the Woosabi creative Asian fusion cuisine - fresh, colorful and always worth a visit.

To summarize once again: Innsbruck's old town is undoubtedly a must-see for every visitor to Innsbruck. But it doesn't have to end at the Golden Roof - just turn into Pfarrgasse and discover an equally historic, but quieter and charming part of the city. The cathedral square is a real Hidden Gem - full of atmosphere, stories and surprises.