Coffee up close: a look behind the beans

11 October 2024

Post originally written in: Deutsch

Coffee is not just a drink, but a daily ritual. A day without the black happiness can't be a good one - I'm sure of it. And I'm probably not the only one who finds it difficult to get by without this source of caffeine. Coffee is simply part of it! People often forget that this black gold is a truly globalized product: the beans we love so much come from faraway countries such as Brazil, Ethiopia, Rwanda or Colombia. Coffee has been imported to Europe since the 17th century and has since become an indispensable part of our culture - including in Tyrol. Today, there are not only many excellent coffee houses in and around Innsbruck, but also small roasting houses that have perfected the craft.

A global success

Coffee is one of the world's most popular beverages. So it's no wonder that the beans are also traded on the stock exchange. In the so-called developing countries, coffee is one of the most valuable export goods. One problem, however, is that only a small proportion of the price paid by the end consumer remains in the country where the coffee is grown and only a small proportion of this reaches the coffee farmers and plantation workers. There are various organizations that are committed to fair trade. Thomas Hofer from thomas' BIO KAFFEE is one person who is really doing something about this problem with all his heart, conviction and a great deal of idealism. I met up with him and his wife Sylvia in their roastery in Telfs.

About Thomas

Thomas Hofer spent more than 20 years on the mountain pasture, where he lived in harmony with nature. "Maybe that's where my enthusiasm for sustainable, fairly produced products and honest craftsmanship comes from," reflects Thomas. He also gained his first roasting experience there, on the mountain pasture - with malt coffee, which he roasted in an old pan. In 2000, he embarked on a new career path and worked for a coffee machine manufacturer. "As I always do things completely or not at all, I trained as a barista with coffee expert Goran Huber and learned how to roast at the best roaster in Germany in Bavaria," recalls Thomas. Today, he runs his own coffee roastery in Telfs, where he lives out his passion for coffee.

The philosophy behind thomas' BIO KAFFEE

Sustainability and fairness are not just buzzwords for Thomas Hofer. His aim is to produce the best possible coffee at all levels. "We want satisfied customers and for the coffee farmers to do well," says Thomas. Trade at eye level is particularly important to him! Those who harvest the coffee beans with great care in the growing regions need to know how important they are. Thomas and his family have Projects around the world and regularly visit their partners on site. "It's hard to imagine, but the farmers are often not even aware of how important their work is and how highly valued coffee is here in the global North. By paying fair prices and sourcing the coffee directly from the producers - without middlemen - we can make the price calculation fair and transparent and show the farmers how important they are in this cycle," he says. This is also reflected in the taste: those who are paid fairly for their work also put in more effort. "We have high quality standards, and our partners know that. We always ask for a sample delivery. We only deliver if it fits," explains Thomas. Win-win for producers and end consumers!

Coffee cherry tea

It's hard to believe, but there are actually people who don't like coffee. Despite this, many don't want to give up caffeine and turn to energy drinks. But there is a healthier alternative: coffee cherry tea. A tea made from coffee, or more precisely from the dried pulp of the cascara - the coffee cherry. The caffeine is mainly found in the skin of the coffee cherry, which is why the tea has a high caffeine content without tasting like coffee. On the contrary, it is more reminiscent of fruit tea. It contains natural antioxidants and a high concentration of vitamin B2 and vitamin E. "The ideal drink for athletes," says Thomas. "It's very easy to prepare: pour boiling water over the coffee cherry tea and leave to infuse for five to ten minutes. You can drink it hot or cold." I was so curious that I bought a pack straight away, and I can give you my recommendation with a clear conscience. I like it best with honey!

Why good coffee is worth more

Quality and fairness have their price. But of course, money also plays a role in the purchasing decision. In times of inflation, when every euro is turned over twice, people often reach for the cheaper product. But Thomas got me thinking with an argument: "How many of us regularly drink coffee in a pub? How much does a cappuccino cost there? An espresso? Many times more than a cup of thomas' coffee. Yet my coffee is certified organic, fair trade and tastes even better," laughs Thomas. When I think about how much money I spend on my coffee-to-go without batting an eyelid, I almost feel guilty. And I have to agree with Thomas, his coffee tastes much better!

Coffee house culture

You know those people who go to the coffee house to work? Whenever I have the chance, I'm one of them. I prefer to work when everything around me is tidy, and since that's not always the case at home, I have to clean before I can sit down at my laptop. And even when there seems to be nothing to do, I always find some kind of distraction. That's why I love working in cafés. The coffee house chain from Seattle with the mermaid logo is very popular for this. A wonderful alternative, with much more charm, is the Brennpunkt coffee competence center in the arches. Anyone who knows my posts and me knows that I'm quick to get excited, but this café really is incredibly charming. It's a shame I don't live nearby, because it would definitely become my second living room. I'm delighted that Astrid, who runs Brennpunkt Coffee Competence - Brennpunkt OG together with her partner Gerhard Farbmacher, took the time to tell me more about coffee, her business and her work.

Enjoying coffee in Innsbruck's nightlife district

Since my youth, I have thought of going out when I think of "the arches" in Innsbruck, and that is not entirely wrong, as the Viaduktbögen are known for their nightclubs, among other things. However, there are also wonderful restaurants and coffee houses here, such as Brennpunkt. "Roasting creates noises and smells that could disturb the neighbors. That's why it was important for us to find a location that doesn't have any direct neighbors," says Astrid. I understand that noise is annoying, but what could be better than the smell of freshly roasted coffee? It turned out that the arches were the perfect place for the roastery and coffee house. With great attention to detail and individualism, the Brennpunkt OG coffee roastery with adjoining coffee house was born.

Coffee luminary

It's hard to believe, but Astrid doesn't drink much coffee herself: "A maximum of one cup a day and lots of decaffeinated coffee." As you can imagine, my jaw dropped at this sentence. How can you love coffee so much, work with it and sell it if you only drink a little yourself? "Smell plays a crucial role in coffee. You need a fine nose, but then you can smell all the subtle aromas: Bitters, sweetness or fruit. But be careful: when you have the fresh espresso in front of you, you have to stir it well so that the crema and the coffee combine. I can tell what a coffee tastes like without having tasted it," says Astrid. I am blown away. The more I talk to her, the more impressed I am by her vast coffee knowledge.

The path to perfect coffee: more than just Arabica and Robusta

It's unbelievable how many factors can influence the taste of coffee. Of course I knew that there are different varieties. The best known are Arabica and Robusta. But the fact that so much more plays a role was new to me. Where does the bean come from? At what altitude does it grow? How is it processed? One example: Monsooned Malabar coffee grows in the Indian region of Malabar. The special aroma of this coffee is significantly influenced by the monsoon rains. The green coffee is spread out to dry, but the recurring rain makes it alternately wet and dry. This process leads to natural fermentation, which gives the coffee a unique, woody-tropical, tobacco-like and full-bodied flavor.

The art of coffee roasting

The task of the coffee roaster is to create a blend in which the aromas harmonize perfectly with each other. There are many factors to consider. Astrid is a real expert: "By roasting, I determine what I make of the raw product. If I roast the beans lighter, I usually get a fruitier taste. With a darker roast, I enhance the bitter, chocolaty note." In short: to get a really good product, a lot has to be taken into account - from the origin to the processing and roasting. It takes professionals to make the perfect coffee.

And finally: which milk is best?

But once you have the perfectly roasted blend in front of you, it's still a matter of taste how you enjoy your coffee - black or with milk? And if with milk, which should it be? Cow's milk or a plant-based alternative? Personally, I'm team oat milk, simply because it tastes the best. Astrid agrees: "Originally, we offered all kinds of milks - from lactose-free milk, which is very sweet, to rice milk and oat milk, which has a more neutral taste. It quickly became clear that oat milk was the best vegan alternative. 'Normal' milk and oat drink have one thing in common: their own taste does not mask the coffee."