A gem of culinary culture: Tyrolean Beuschl in the style of the Wilderin

My first time? That was rather spontaneous: the bustling poacher took my innocence in a niche in the Seilergasse, in the middle of Innsbruck's old town. Since then, I've been drawn there again and again to indulge in this rare beauty. Because here, and only here, the siblings serve you a time-honored Tyrolean Beuschl. Anyone who still knows this ancient offal dish in this country either loves it or hates it, there is nothing in between. However, some gourmets claim that a properly prepared Beuschl has won over every skeptical palate. So much so, in fact, that I recently stood in the kitchen with the savages myself to rave about it here.

„Beuschl“ is listed in the etymological dictionary of the German language on page 117 of its 24th edition. Specifically, as a cute diminutive of Bausch (or Wulst), whose former meaning, which was exclusively related to clothing, was probably extended to include intestines at some point. In turn, the cuddly Beuschl has its culinary origins in the rural all-purpose kitchen. Where everything good is valuable and nothing is ever wasted. And because the noble Wilderin still cooks with this same all-embracing love, the daily changing menu always features at least one exquisite offal dish. Among other things, the rare and beautiful Tyrolean Beuschl.

Oleia from the Pitztal, former Haflinger foal from the Christian Wille farm - I am introduced as soon as I get in. A stopover at Thomas' butcher's shop Klamm 80b in the very back of Leutaschtal, and the pony is already sorted into its component parts in Innsbruck. "We always buy and process an animal as a whole. That way, we have access to the freshest offal," explains the boss brother Michl proudly, nodding towards Victoria. The restaurant manager then throws an apron over me with one hand, pulls a thick espresso from the portafilter with the other and smiles as she pushes open the door to the kitchen with the third.

Inside, Kathi is cooking a fruit comp(l)ott, the peel will later become sorbet. Laurid gives me his best knife and I look at it: "We've already flattened the lungs, they puff up like a sponge during cooking. The thick vessels have to be removed first and then cut into very fine strips. The spleen is comparatively creamy, the heart again a muscle - but very fine, like a fillet!" And indeed, when cut, it is heartily red and silky, virtually free of fat and fibers. The lungs, with their endless lines, are a different matter when it comes to processing. The spleen may look like marble, but it is as soft as butter. Andi mixes coleslaw and thinks it's a shame that so many beautiful things are forgotten. Laurid announces his approval of the potato ricer. Kathi also shakes her head, she could rave about offal forever. After an hour of slicing, I'm done for now, I'll be cooking tomorrow.

The next day, I am greeted by head nurse Claudia, fresh offal is just arriving in boxes. As she flies past, Kathi quickly grabs a heart, beaming for a sous-vide project. And after Victoria, espresso, apron and door, young chef Lukas is already waiting for me at the cooking pot. There, onions Brunoise (finely chopped) and flour from the Styrian Schalk mill sweat in the finest pork fat. When the roux (roux) reaches an aromatic milk chocolate darkness, it is deglazed with excellent white wine. Then, in addition to my fine offal cut from yesterday, julienne (fine strips) of pickled gherkin, a good "Batzn" (blob) of tarragon mustard, a handful of garlic, a dash of strong beef stock, apple cider vinegar and pickle water as well as marjoram, bay leaf, caraway seeds, pepper and salt are added. Then simmer briefly and refine with a little cream before serving.

Tyrolean (veal)Beuschl poacher's style

• 4kg organicBeuschl (lung, heart, tongue, spleen), cut into fine strips
• For the dark roux, first mix
• brown 550g pork fat with 550g flour, then
• 800g onions (finely diced) and fry until milk chocolate dark.
• Deglaze with 1 liter of white wine,
• 100ml apple cider vinegar, a 500ml jar of pickled gherkins (in fine strips) and water,
• 150g tarragon mustard and 20g chopped garlic and
• add 12g caraway seeds, 12g pepper, 6g marjoram and two three-leaf bay leaves
• Pour in 1-2l of strong beef stock and season with a little salt.
• To serve, reheat and refine with a little cream.

At Wilderin, Beuschl is typically served with fresh tin dumplings. However, a good proportion is now filled straight away and goes into the vending machine outside. The actual "corona child" (an invention from Covid times) is still very popular - and the Beuschl has long been a popular classic there. Apparently, Beuschl-Guster (lustful hunger) doesn't just haunt me at the most impossible times. And there's one more certainty: if the busy Wilderinis no longer around one day, at least her Beuschl will live on for a while.

For tasting in the Wilderin, please make a reservation in advance.

However, you don't need a reservation to collect from the vending machine - just a bit of luck. The dishes are very popular!

Photos: All pictures from Beuschl to the staff were taken by the author.